Making a Corset Cover
Hello!
As I mentioned in previous posts, I made a proper 1860's gored corset. However, I had already made a corset cover using a plain old modern corset. When I tried on my old corset cover with my new corset, sadness! It didn't fit!
I had to go ahead and adjust my pattern piece, which I detailed in another post, and then remake my corset cover. I chose to use my Truly Victorian TV 107 corset cover pattern. The pattern is very easy to use, and it also details how to adjust the pattern for the best fit, which I found exceedingly helpful.
The pattern requires almost two yards of forty four inch muslin, which I already had, some buttons, and some lace for trimming. I got these mother of pearl buttons, half inch lace, and beading lace from my local JoAnn fabrics.
Since the beading lace originally came with a bland, white ribbon threaded it through it, I opted to purchase a very thin strip of ribbon through the threads instead. I chose this gorgeous deep purple ribbon, since I'm a sucker for jewel tones. The purple ribbon is also what I'll use to tighten the neckline when the cover is buttoned up to make sure the shoulder straps don't fall off my shoulders.
Pro tip: use a lighter or, very carefully, your stovetop (if you have a gas stove) to gently burn the very end of your your ribbon to melt it and prevent fraying. Note: this only works on synthetic ribbon, which is all that my local fabric shop had. Someday I'll get natural fiber ribbons...
I like to use pattern weights to hold the pieces and then cut them out with a rotary cutter. If you want to use a rotary cutter, do make sure to have a self healing mat under whatever you're cutting, or you'll end up with dozens of fine lines on your cutting table.
After cutting out my pieces, I made the placket to reinforce the bodice front and securely hold the buttons. It was pretty straightforward: I just needed to stitch the facings onto the bodice fronts, and then map out my button placement.
Once the fronts were finished, I stitched together the back, side backs, sides, side fronts (which I adjusted using a full bust adjustment) and fronts. Then I finished the neckline by adding the beading lace using the Heirloom Lace method that the Truly Victorian patterns describe how to use.
To secure the lace to the neckline, you position the lace half an inch away from the neckline and stitch down with a narrow zig zag stitch, just barely catching the edge of the lace. Once you sew all the way around the neckline once, fold down the muslin so the lace fully sticks out. Iron the muslin down, and stitch around the neckline with a wider zig zag, stitching through both layers.
Then I finished the armholes (I opted not to add sleeves) and hemline with regular lace using the same insertion method. Finally, I hand sewed the buttons onto my bodice, but cheated slightly and used my sewing machine to stitch on buttonholes.
You can finish your seams whenever you want, but I find it best to flatfell them before stitching on the lace. It means your whole seams are finished, and folding down and stitching the edges of the bodice help secure the ends of the seams.
And then you're all done!
I didn't get a picture of my new corset cover, but this is how the patterns turns out! Pleases note: there is an option to add oodles more trim to the front of the corset cover, but I'm not a frilly girl so I opted not to put all of it on my cover, but that's up to personal discretion!
I hope you try this pattern out, and let me know what you think! It's super easy to follow along with, and a wonderful starter pattern for anyone interested in costuming in the latter half of the nineteenth century.
-The Victorian Alaskan
As I mentioned in previous posts, I made a proper 1860's gored corset. However, I had already made a corset cover using a plain old modern corset. When I tried on my old corset cover with my new corset, sadness! It didn't fit!
I had to go ahead and adjust my pattern piece, which I detailed in another post, and then remake my corset cover. I chose to use my Truly Victorian TV 107 corset cover pattern. The pattern is very easy to use, and it also details how to adjust the pattern for the best fit, which I found exceedingly helpful.
The pattern requires almost two yards of forty four inch muslin, which I already had, some buttons, and some lace for trimming. I got these mother of pearl buttons, half inch lace, and beading lace from my local JoAnn fabrics.
Since the beading lace originally came with a bland, white ribbon threaded it through it, I opted to purchase a very thin strip of ribbon through the threads instead. I chose this gorgeous deep purple ribbon, since I'm a sucker for jewel tones. The purple ribbon is also what I'll use to tighten the neckline when the cover is buttoned up to make sure the shoulder straps don't fall off my shoulders.
Pro tip: use a lighter or, very carefully, your stovetop (if you have a gas stove) to gently burn the very end of your your ribbon to melt it and prevent fraying. Note: this only works on synthetic ribbon, which is all that my local fabric shop had. Someday I'll get natural fiber ribbons...
I like to use pattern weights to hold the pieces and then cut them out with a rotary cutter. If you want to use a rotary cutter, do make sure to have a self healing mat under whatever you're cutting, or you'll end up with dozens of fine lines on your cutting table.
After cutting out my pieces, I made the placket to reinforce the bodice front and securely hold the buttons. It was pretty straightforward: I just needed to stitch the facings onto the bodice fronts, and then map out my button placement.
Once the fronts were finished, I stitched together the back, side backs, sides, side fronts (which I adjusted using a full bust adjustment) and fronts. Then I finished the neckline by adding the beading lace using the Heirloom Lace method that the Truly Victorian patterns describe how to use.
To secure the lace to the neckline, you position the lace half an inch away from the neckline and stitch down with a narrow zig zag stitch, just barely catching the edge of the lace. Once you sew all the way around the neckline once, fold down the muslin so the lace fully sticks out. Iron the muslin down, and stitch around the neckline with a wider zig zag, stitching through both layers.
Then I finished the armholes (I opted not to add sleeves) and hemline with regular lace using the same insertion method. Finally, I hand sewed the buttons onto my bodice, but cheated slightly and used my sewing machine to stitch on buttonholes.
You can finish your seams whenever you want, but I find it best to flatfell them before stitching on the lace. It means your whole seams are finished, and folding down and stitching the edges of the bodice help secure the ends of the seams.
And then you're all done!
I didn't get a picture of my new corset cover, but this is how the patterns turns out! Pleases note: there is an option to add oodles more trim to the front of the corset cover, but I'm not a frilly girl so I opted not to put all of it on my cover, but that's up to personal discretion!
I hope you try this pattern out, and let me know what you think! It's super easy to follow along with, and a wonderful starter pattern for anyone interested in costuming in the latter half of the nineteenth century.
-The Victorian Alaskan
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