Pattern Review: TV 106 - Chemise & Drawers
Hello friends!
Today I'd like to go over some of the most basic, and important, garments a historical costumer can own/create. These are the unsung heroes of many historical costumes. Let's be honest, when someone says they are going to wear Victorian or Edwardian dress, plain, boring chemise and drawers aren't the first thing that pop into your head, are they? Instead, we like to dream about sumptuous gowns, glittering gems, yards of intricate, delicate fabrics. But underneath all that? Basic, boring chemise and drawers.
Please ignore the messy petticoat underneath, that's what happens when you try and make two undergarments at once. I don't recommend it. The chemise isn't a 'sexy' garment, at least not by modern standards. It's a shapeless, squared off bag of fabric with arm and neck holes. But it lies underneath your corset, preventing your corset from pinching you as you wear it. Your chemise also protects your precious outer garments so you don't have to worry about washing your satins, taffetas, or even more delicate cottons. The Victorians really thought through how they dressed.
I thoroughly enjoy using the Truly Victorian pattern TV 106 for this. I didn't include the drawers in this post, because I have apparently managed not to take any pictures of them, oh well. As my first ever historical garment, it wasn't that different from many modern garments I had made. The instructions were very easy to follow along. But really, it's a big square with a neckline, so it wasn't too hard. It also got me used to sewing again, and using both my sewing machine and serger, which was very important.
The neckline is very easy to make. Once you've cut out the pieces, you stitch them together right sides together, leaving a small hold at the ends. Then you flip it inside out, iron it, and stitch it flat. From there, you attach the sleeves and then the body. I ended up removing the sleeves since I didn't care for the bulk, or their shape.
Here is a closeup of the neckline. The chemise kept slipping off of my shoulders, which is great if your gown has a bertha collar, but mine didn't, so I took it in a bit. I also had some extra time, and decided some embroidery would not be out of place. I like blue, and I like stars, so why not blue stars?
I used cotton muslin, yes, the quintessential mockup material, to make my chemise and drawers. I wanted to be comfortable working with it for future mockups, and I wanted something cheap I wouldn't mind being ruined by my terrible sewing skills. I also needed to be able to wash it without fear of ruining a pattern or running colours, so muslin it was.
The inner seams are all (inaccurately, I'm afraid) serged for extra protection so I can throw it in my washing machine and dryer. I may want accurate clothes, but I don't have time for period correct washing, so something had to give.
I can also hem this more, or let them hem out if I wash to lengthen or shorten it. The sides can also be taken in as need be, or for personal preference.
The pattern calls for some buttons, ribbons, and about 3.75 yards of fabric for the chemise alone. The drawers are an extra 3 yards of fabric.
I hope you enjoyed this, and maybe even found it useful? Please comment or question, and certainly come back again!
Sincerely, The Victorian Alaskan
Today I'd like to go over some of the most basic, and important, garments a historical costumer can own/create. These are the unsung heroes of many historical costumes. Let's be honest, when someone says they are going to wear Victorian or Edwardian dress, plain, boring chemise and drawers aren't the first thing that pop into your head, are they? Instead, we like to dream about sumptuous gowns, glittering gems, yards of intricate, delicate fabrics. But underneath all that? Basic, boring chemise and drawers.
Please ignore the messy petticoat underneath, that's what happens when you try and make two undergarments at once. I don't recommend it. The chemise isn't a 'sexy' garment, at least not by modern standards. It's a shapeless, squared off bag of fabric with arm and neck holes. But it lies underneath your corset, preventing your corset from pinching you as you wear it. Your chemise also protects your precious outer garments so you don't have to worry about washing your satins, taffetas, or even more delicate cottons. The Victorians really thought through how they dressed.
I thoroughly enjoy using the Truly Victorian pattern TV 106 for this. I didn't include the drawers in this post, because I have apparently managed not to take any pictures of them, oh well. As my first ever historical garment, it wasn't that different from many modern garments I had made. The instructions were very easy to follow along. But really, it's a big square with a neckline, so it wasn't too hard. It also got me used to sewing again, and using both my sewing machine and serger, which was very important.
The neckline is very easy to make. Once you've cut out the pieces, you stitch them together right sides together, leaving a small hold at the ends. Then you flip it inside out, iron it, and stitch it flat. From there, you attach the sleeves and then the body. I ended up removing the sleeves since I didn't care for the bulk, or their shape.
Here is a closeup of the neckline. The chemise kept slipping off of my shoulders, which is great if your gown has a bertha collar, but mine didn't, so I took it in a bit. I also had some extra time, and decided some embroidery would not be out of place. I like blue, and I like stars, so why not blue stars?
I used cotton muslin, yes, the quintessential mockup material, to make my chemise and drawers. I wanted to be comfortable working with it for future mockups, and I wanted something cheap I wouldn't mind being ruined by my terrible sewing skills. I also needed to be able to wash it without fear of ruining a pattern or running colours, so muslin it was.
The inner seams are all (inaccurately, I'm afraid) serged for extra protection so I can throw it in my washing machine and dryer. I may want accurate clothes, but I don't have time for period correct washing, so something had to give.
I can also hem this more, or let them hem out if I wash to lengthen or shorten it. The sides can also be taken in as need be, or for personal preference.
The pattern calls for some buttons, ribbons, and about 3.75 yards of fabric for the chemise alone. The drawers are an extra 3 yards of fabric.
I hope you enjoyed this, and maybe even found it useful? Please comment or question, and certainly come back again!
Sincerely, The Victorian Alaskan
Comments
Post a Comment